Lundi, 10 juin 2013

6 SERVICES À SAVEUR DE RHUM

J'ai participé à la 4e édition de la Tablée Cocktails, un événement qui permet de découvrir un menu 6 services préparé à base d'un alcool vedette. La soirée se tenait Chez Parra, dans le Vieux Longueuil, où on nous présentait un menu à base de rhum Appleton Estate.

 

J'avais hâte de participer à la 4e Tablée Cocktails. D'abord parce que c'est une occasion pour moi de  visiter le Vieux-Longueuil que je trouve charmant, mais également de goûter à un menu entièrement fait à base de rhum Appleton Estate, une eau-de-vie que j'apprécie particulièrement. On se rend donc rue Saint-Charles, Chez Parra, un restaurant français dont la réputation n'est plus à faire.

Le premier cocktail arrive, le Lemoyne, dont le nom est de toute évidence un petit clin d'œil à la ville de Longueuil. Préparé avec du céleri, de la poire, de l'abricot, de l'absinthe et du rhum, il est plutôt épais en bouche, comme un nectar, avec un certain côté fumé. Pour l'accompagner, on nous présente un joli petit cornet gaufré, fourré au fromage de chèvre et rhum. Crémeux, presque fondant, et légèrement sucré, il est surmonté d'une délicieuse crevette grillée. Ça commence fort.



On nous présente ensuite le Bugs Bunny, avec de l'essence de carotte, du sirop de canne, de l'orange, de l'Angostura et du rhum 12 ans. Liquoreux, avec un goût prédominant d'agrume, le résultat se trouve, en quelque sorte, à mi-chemin entre le pineau des Charentes et le Lillet. L'entrée froide qui l'accompagne est un tartare de magret de canard légèrement sucré, orné d' un confit de zeste de citron, avec sa crème de banane au rhum et chips de banane plantain. Un mélange, certes surprenant, mais agréable au niveau du jeu de textures et de saveurs.



Puis arrive l'Incompris, un cocktail avec un liqueur de cannelle, de la lime, de la tomate fraîche, du sirop de canne et du blanc d'œuf. Très frais, il a une certaine similarité avec le pisco sour, le cocktail national du Pérou que j'aime tant.  On l'accompagne d'une entrée chaude: pétoncle bardé de saumon fumé, accompagné d'une guacamole au rhum et estragon, et chips de patate douce. Le saumon est un peu sec et le pétoncle, qui n'offre pas une chair naturellement savoureuse, se perd un peu. Mais la bouchée est plutôt bonne avec la guacamole et sa pointe de lime.



Avant d'attaquer  le plat principal, on a droit à un petit show à l'azote liquide, pour la création du 4e cocktail, le South Beach. Yogourt à la lime, crème de noix de coco, lime, ananas et rhum, c'est une sorte de sorbet alcoolisé au mojito. Peut-être est-ce à cause du côté sucré présent dans tous les plats et cocktails précédents, mais je le trouve soudainement beaucoup trop acide. Dommage, car la texture est intéressante avec des petits copeaux de noix de coco . Il a bien rempli sa tâche de "trou normand" et il faut dire qu'après 3 services, on en a bien besoin!



Pour le 5e cocktail, on nous amène dans une toute autre direction, plutôt surprenante. Le Bee it, avec essence d'estragon, betteraves, citron, sirop de falernum artisanal, aperol et rhum, présente un goût dominant de betterave et une texture épaisse. Ce n'est pas mon préféré de la soirée, mais j'admire l'audace. Après tout, un cocktail, c'est un peu comme une œuvre d'art: on peut l'admirer sans la comprendre. Le plat principal est une cuisse de lapin farcie d'ananas et de pruneaux au rhum, avec une sauce à l'orange et quelques grains de poivre rose bien parfumés. La viande est accompagnée de quelques légumes grillés dont le bock choï, légume qui à mon sens, n'est pas assez utilisé. Je suis donc contente de le retrouver dans un contexte si peu probable.



En grande finale, on nous amène le 6e cocktail et le dessert. Le Panache, un cocktail avec blanc d'œuf, confiture de fraise, citron, absinthe et rhum, accompagne un shortcake aux fraises. Léger, frais et savoureux, l'accord termine en beauté le repas.



J'ai beaucoup aimé le fait qu'on prenne le temps de nous parler de l'Appleton Estate au cours de la soirée et qu'on nous décrive les plats et les cocktails. J'ai également apprécié les accords assez audacieux. La Tablée cocktails no4 a donc été un franc succès de mon côté. Petit conseil: évitez de conduire lorsque vous participez à l'événement , les cocktails sont généreux!

VOYAGE AU PÉROU

LA TABLÉE COCKTAILS
Cet article est classé sous :Vanessa Huet
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