Lundi, 21 décembre 2015

LE BANQUET RUINART

Ian Purtell, directeur de la restauration et sommelier-conseil de l’Hôtel Rive Gauche Refuge Urbain à Beloeil. / Photo: Christian Hébert

J’étais invité à rencontrer Éric Simonet, directeur international de la Maison Ruinart, au restaurant le Coureur des Bois, Bistro Culinaire, de l’Hôtel Rive Gauche Refuge Urbain à Beloeil.

 

À mon arrivée j’ai été accueilli par la directrice générale de l’hôtel, Marie-Josée Denis, et par Charlotte de Poncins, pour Ruinart. On m’a acheminé vers le cellier du restaurant, que le groupe était en train de visiter. J’ai été présenté à Éric Simonet, et j’ai revu avec plaisir Stéphane de Meurville, et plusieurs amis journalistes. Le directeur de la restauration et sommelier-conseil, Ian Purtell, m’a gentiment fait visiter sa célèbre cave.

Elle compte 13000 bouteilles, près de 3000 étiquettes, où des marques aussi prestigieuses que Pétrus et Ruinart se déclinent à la verticale comme à l’horizontale. Elle est Best Award of Excellence du Wine Spectator depuis trois ans.


Marie-Josée Denis, directrice générale de l’hôtel.

Le restaurant est très accueillant, 65 places, 2 salons privés, une table du chef qui donne sur la cuisine.

Nous avons passé à table. Nous étions huit autour de la table du chef.

On nous a servi un amuse-bouche dans un nid, au centre duquel il y avait un coco rempli de Panna cotta de foie gras et gelée de fruits de la passion accompagné d’une flûte de Ruinart Brut.


 
Ce champagne à une robe brillante et limpide, de couleur jaune avec des reflets or où scintillent de toutes petites bulles, en cordon soutenu.


Bouquet très fruité, pomme, poire, abricot, noisettes. Des notes florales également qui deviennent brioche lorsqu’on s’y attarde. 

En bouche c’est un vin très sec qui a une attaque vive. Il est charmeur mais ciselé, beaucoup de fraîcheur et une finale longue et minérale. Un mariage réussi.

La première entrée se composait d’huitres fraîches aux billes de pamplemousse et chair de crabe des neiges. Sous les huitres il y avait des petits cailloux plongés dans de la neige carbonique, qui faisait beaucoup de fumée. Elle était accompagnée d’une flute de Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, 100 % Chardonnay de différentes années.


 
Emblème du Goût Ruinart, ce champagne a une magnifique robe brillante,  jaune doré pâle, légers reflets verts. Effervescence joyeuse.

Bouquet très fruité d’agrumes, d’ananas, de fruit de la passion de mangue, de chirimoya, de pêche blanche.


Belle ampleur en bouche, superbe fraîcheur. Une matière fruitée et minérale. Une fin de bouche longue et aérienne. Un autre mariage réussi.

La deuxième entrée était présentée sur une ardoise. Elle était enfermée dans une petite boite en fer blanc, accompagnée de croutons et huile d’olive. Nous avons ouvert la boîte, il y avait à l’intérieur Rillette de crevette et esturgeon fumé, caviar du Nouveau-Brunswick. Cette entrée était accompagnée de Dom Ruinart 2004.


 
Ce magnifique champagne est intégralement composé de chardonnay Grands Crus. Une combinaison parfaite qui apporte une structure aérienne et délicate.

Robe or pâle, avec des légers reflets verts. Des bulles coquines viennent vous chatouiller le nez. Bouquet de châtaigne, de noix de coco et de pain frais, qui laisse place à des arômes de fleurs d’iris et de muguet, suivi de notes d’agrumes, surtout de bergamote, et un soupçon de minéralité: roche mouillée, silex et un peu d’iode.


Le palais de Dom Ruinart 2004 se caractérise par une attaque franche mais soyeuse, soutenue par les notes minérales. Grâce à la fraîcheur des agrumes et des notes de gentiane il est lèger, presqu’aérien.  La finale, très longue, repose sur des notes d’écorce de pamplemousse et de kumquat et sur une légère perception saline. Nous avons applaudi ce mariage.

La troisième entrée était servie sur une assiette nacrée et couverte d’un bol translucide, blanc comme la neige. En soulevant le bol nous avons découvert une composition de morue noire d’Alaska pochée au Pinot Noir sur carpaccio de betteraves. Elle était accompagnée d’une flute de Ruinart Rosé.


Le Ruinart Rosé est l’expression gourmande du Goût Ruinart. Belle robe rose-enflammé. Des bulles abondantes et brillantes comme des roses-zircon. Bouquet subtil d’aubépine et de rose. On perçoit ensuite de la cerise et des notes de myrtille, de framboise et de noix de muscade.


En bouche il est intense, fruité, aromatique, il doit son caractère voluptueux à son assemblage de Chardonnay avec du Pinot Noir vinifié en rouge. Une belle fraîcheur qui vous parcourt la bouche jusqu’en finale. Encore un accord réussi.

Le plat principal était servi dans une assiette en faïence rustique. C’était un carré d’agneau en croute de pistache et sauce estragon accompagné d’une flute de Dom Ruinart Rosé 1996.


 
Ce champagne exprime toute la richesse du Goût Ruinart. Le millésime 1996 doit sa rareté à sa sélection de grands crus: prédominance du Chardonnay sur le Pinot Noir vinifié en rouge. 


Dom Ruinart Rosé 1996 présente une robe soutenue, d’un corail profond, aux reflets délicatement cuivrés. Son effervescence est fine  et persistante. Bouquet riche et complexe, floral, fruité et épicé.

Le chardonnay prédomine sur l’attaque en bouche, qui est enrobée, précise et délicate. La fin de bouche, est aussi joliment structurée et laisse le Pinot Noir s’exprimer avec une fine amertume soulignée par le faible dosage. Ce champagne extraordinaire a su sublimer l’agneau, cuit à la perfection.


 
L’assiette de fromages du Québec était accompagnée d’une glace au brie et servie encore avec Ruinart Blanc de Blancs.


 
Le dessert arriva. J’étais alors plus que satisfait mais est-ce qu’une sphère de chocolat 70% cacao, guimauve maison et petits fruits rouges, qui fond lorsqu’on lui verse une sauce de chocolat chaud se refuse? Il était en plus accompagné d’une coupe de Hennesy XO, sublime.


 
Le chef Jean-François Méthot et son équipe furent requis et ovationnés.

Le service à table a été impeccable. Le sommelier Philippe Danon a fait un travail sans faille.

Je garderai un souvenir délicieux de ce banquet. Quelle façon agréable de rencontrer Éric Simonet, directeur international de Ruinart!

VOICI LA LISTE DES CHAMPAGNES QUE NOUS AVONS DÉGUSTÉS ET LEUR DISPONIBILITÉ
  • Ruinart Brut disponible à la SAQ code 10326004, prix 78,75$
  • Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, disponible en IP via Charton Hobbs, prix  105,25$
  • Dom Ruinart Brut 2004 Blanc disponible à la SAQ Signature code 11744697, prix 268$
  • Ruinart Rosé, disponible en IP via Charton Hobbs, 105,25$
  • Dom Ruinart Rosé 1996 disponible à la SAQ code 11397349, prix 505,25$
MAISON RUINART

Éric Simonet, directeur international de la Maison Ruinart

Représentés au Québec par Charton Hobbs
 
Manon Blais, responsable des importations privées
Tél. : 514-353-8955

Le Coureur des Bois, Bistro Culinaire
Ian Purtell, directeur de la restauration et sommelier-conseil
Cell. : 450-888-2434

Hôtel Rive Gauche Refuge Urbain
Marie-Josée Denis, directrice générale

SAMY RABBAT
Cet article est classé sous :Ruinart Roger Huet Découverte Dégustation
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akshay - 31 juillet 2017
videomix - 20 août 2017

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itube - 27 août 2017
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thuê văn phòng giá rẻ quận 1 2017 tại VNCBlue - 31 août 2017
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ankitverma - 5 septembre 2017




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ufuoma09 - 11 septembre 2017

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ufuoma - 11 septembre 2017
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akshay - 23 septembre 2017
Your upload never made it out of the gate, automatically blocked by Mediafire...http://trangvangnhaviet.com/

sofia - 2 octobre 2017
Nom (pseudo)
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Lien Youtube
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